Travel Blog Post and videos - - Zambesi River and Victoria Falls -- Anne Moyes

Welcome again to Anne Moyes with her latest African Episode - The Zambesi River and Victoria Falls

THE ZAMBEZI

The Zambezi is only half as long as the Nile, but it’s just as important in Colonial history because of its association with Livingstone and Stanley.  I’ve visited three different areas of the Zambesi valley, and can see why this river captivates all who are lucky enough to experience her magic. 

Victoria Falls - Image courtesy of Wallrife

Victoria Falls is locally named Mosi Oa Tunya, which means The Smoke That Thunders. It marks the arrival of the Zambezi into Zimbabwe, and the next 800 miles of it course form the border with Zambia.  When Henry Morton Stanley saw the Falls, he told his editor at the New York Herald, Have seen Victoria. Sell Niagara.  Some years earlier, Dr David Livingstone was the first European to set eyes on this wonder of the natural world, about which he wrote in March 1856, Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.

Helen, my sister-in-law Gail and I flew there for a long weekend. Harare’s domestic airport offers fewer services than Lincoln bus station, so we breakfasted on beer and crisps before boarding a small aircraft for the short flight, during which we were served more beer and yet more crisps.  Although we went in Winter, it was warm, the mosquitoes were busy every evening, and the town’s colonial origins were very much in evidence in the shape of elegantly styled hotels from which the Falls spray and roar can be experienced whilst

African Elephants - Image courtesy of Africa

enjoying afternoon tea in the garden.  Cucumber sandwiches, scones and of course, Victoria sponge cake were the order of the day.  In front of the Victoria Falls Hotel, the brown and gold liveried Pullman train was busy steaming up in preparation for its journey over the Falls railway bridge into neighbouring Zambia.  It seemed like the dawn of the twentieth century; only our digital cameras and Nike trainers signified the twenty-first.

We did all the proper touristy things, of course. A sunset cruise made for close-up sightings of elephants foraging for supper and crocodiles basking on the sandbanks. Our walk through the National Park was exhilarating: yes the spray does create rainbows, it does soak your clothes, and gazing down into that wall of water does make you feel dizzier than a heavy duty ride at a theme park.  A bucket list essential.  The following day, I walked across the bridge into Zambia, wondering how fearless the men were who had constructed this engineering masterpiece, and how mad the tourists of today are who bungee jump off the bridge down into the gorge.

 

Lake Kariba - Image courtesy of Wikipedia

The Lake Kariba weekend was a more amateur affair. After a week at the chalkface (literally – the blackboard still rules in the African classroom), Helen and I set off in an ancient Peugeot 305 to drive 200 km to stay in a lodge on the lake shore.  We were told that Master, the ‘houseboy’ would have the lodge ready and would cook for us, as well as doing all the domestic work.  What we weren’t told was that it would be dark by the time we arrived and that the last 5 km were dirt tracks through the bush.  Somehow, the Peugeot made it, we were greeted warmly and fed generously before tumbling into our mosquito netted boudoirs.  Saturday morning was a revelation.  Breakfast on the balcony overlooking the lake.  A manicured garden with a great brown dump of fresh elephant dung in the middle of the lawn.  A pod of hippos harrumphing with agitation as the serrated silhouette of a crocodile sawed through the glinting water.  White fish eagles circling purposefully above the aquatic activity. 

The drive to the Dam revealed to us the full wildness of our route the previous evening.  Helen was relieved that I didn’t wind down the window when we noticed a group of vultures gorging themselves.  She pointed out that whatever they were eating had been killed, and whatever had done the killing was as like as not still in the vicinity.  Helen was, however, much more agitated when we encountered a herd of buffalo.  Now, I only think of these creatures as suppliers of mozzarella cheese.  She assured me that African buffalo did no such thing, could not be domesticated, and if they took exception to your vehicle could do it and its occupants a great deal of damage.  We drove on warily.

Nyami-Nyami - Image couresty of ShonaandChrisOates.blogspot.co.uk

Kariba town, like Victoria Falls town had all the appearance of a place formerly important, but now in a state of decline.  The shops and restaurants had lost any inclination to welcome customers.  Our precarious clamber up to the dam wall was rewarded with a spectacular view across the Zambesi, its millions of gallons of water walled back into the lake – a feat of human control over Nature.  A statue of Nyaminyami, the river god who legend says will one day restore the Zambesi to its former course, stands guard on the first stone of the dam wall. 

My third Zambesi  expedition was even wilder.  Rifa is a wildlife study centre of Zimbabwean school children.

For a great blog post on this area, visit - http://shonaandchrisoates.blogspot.co.uk/2012_12_01_archive.html

Book recommendations - 

Title - Gazed on By Angels in Flight
Author - Hilda Sangwa Schwaiger
Genre - African Chick Lit
Amazon UK - Click here
Amazon US - Click here

Synopsis - After years of exploration in rainy; mosquito-infested woodlands in Zambia; Scottish explorer Dr/ David Livingstone gazed on the mighty Victoria Falls and its astounding beauty for the first time. In awe; he reckoned such an amazing natural wonder must have been gazed upon by angels in flight. More than 150 years later; two vivacious and gorgeous models; Sofia and Coco; and a broadcast journalist; Jody; are drawn; as if by fate; to the magical falls where life will test them as the worlds famous Miss Victoria Falls pageant is underway. At the falls; David Livingstone discovered a magnificent scenic bliss. But can the breathtaking beauty of the falls conquer the challenges these three women encounter- Cocoa; with her mixed heritage; Sofia; with a secret that stole her innocence; and Jody; with her new love interest? Will the women emerge from this event with a more constructive outlook on life; or will they fold under their individual crises? Thrust in a paradise with wildlife and exotic plants; twenty Zambian models compete for the unusual crown during a two-week assignment in the beauty of the tourism hub-Livingstone.

Title - Victoria Falls The complete destination guide
Author - Jeremy A Waldron
Genre - Non Fiction/guide book

Synopsis - If you're planning on visiting Victoria Falls (ZAMBIA and/or ZIMBABWE), this guide is essential for determining where to stay, what to do, and how much it will cost. From budget traveler to luxurious romantic get-a-ways this guide covers it all!

There are few places on earth that match the spectacular splendor of Victoria Falls. Victoria Falls, commonly known as Vic Falls, is perhaps one of the most famous destinations in southern Africa. With its central location to Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, and Zimbabwe, it's no wonder why so many visitors to southern Africa include Victoria Falls into their itinerary. 

One of the seven Natural Wonders of the World, Victoria Falls is truly inspirational. Whether you visit during the rainy season - when the falls form the largest curtain of water anywhere in the world - or during the dry season, you will not be disappointed. 

With lush rainforests, a plethora of wildlife, and a handful of spectacular activities in which to partake, Victoria Falls is a definite, must visit, place of interest. 

Travelers to Victoria Falls want to be placed in accommodation nearest to the falls and have great views of its plunging waters. But which side is better for this, Zambia or Zimbabwe?

In this guide, Wild Safari Africa's Managing Director lists the vital points in great detail of what to see, how to do it, what it will cost and how to save money.

*Interactive maps to get your bearings straight

SOME GREAT YOUTUBE VIDEOS TO TEMPT YOU TO THIS WONDERFUL AREA

Thanks again Anne for your great contribution. It certainly looks like a beautiful area to visit. 

Zimbabwe (Part 1) -- A very underated country -- Guest blog written by Anne Moyes

Todays guest blog is written by Anne Moyes. She is sharing with us her travels in Zimbabwe. When I was in the travel business, I won a trip to Zimbabwe with the Zimbabwe tourist board but it was cancelled two weeks before departure, due to the troubles with Mugabe. I have always want to visit and despite hearing horror stories it has not put me off. Anne has made me want to go even more! Please read on and delight in this beautiful country........

Zimbabwe usually comes last in alphabetical lists of countries, and it’s probably in the same position on most tourists’ lists of must-visit African countries.  Never one to follow the crowd, I shall be making my fourth visit to this beautiful, damaged country in December.  I’ve been told by my cousin Helen that as long as I bring a Heston Blumenthal orange Christmas pudding, they’ll kill the fatted calf for the feast day.  Then it’ll be roasted on a braai – this is a barbecue made out of an old cyanide drum.  Did you know that cyanide is used in gold refining?

You can go to the toilet behind the bushes but watch out!

The first time I went out to Zim was five years ago, to visit Helen, who moved out there in 1997 to teach children with learning disabilities. The family were horrified at her wild behaviour, and warned me that if I didn’t starve to death, I’d catch malaria, be bitten by a black mamba, get trampled by an elephant, or all three.  Actually, it turned out there was a cobra living by her fence, but as it was winter, the snake was too sleepy to bother us.  On the other hand, the nest of killer bees which was tucked into the eaves were rather more bothersome, and I must confess that when Helen said she couldn’t have it dealt with for at least another month as their honey wouldn’t be ready to harvest until then, I did realise that Africa’s not for the faint-hearted.

Poinsettia - Copyright Anne Moyes

My cousin lives in Kadoma and works in Chegutu.  Both are small towns a hundred miles South West of Harare.  It’s a region of rich, red soil which grew wealthy in colonial times on cash crops of tobacco, oranges and cotton.  Alongside the cloud blue jacaranda and scarlet flamboyant trees, avocados and papaya still thrive wildly and provide a generous table for anyone who cares to gather them.   The cash crops, however, have withered and the dust now eddies through the brush and stubble. 

Taxi's are always full!

I’m not sure what most amazed me the first time I was collected from Harare airport. Transport took the form of Helen’s friend Presley opening the back door of his ancient Toyota truck to reveal a flock mattress, a large jerry can and his nine year old son, Dan.  He’d been allowed to take the afternoon off school to come and meet Helen’s cousin from England. My suitcases were stuffed into the truck, Pres announced that we must have a drink before our long journey, and we rattled off into Harare.  The faded glory of this city was clear to see:  smart department stores and hotels now boarded up, youthful brown uniformed police darting their eyes across pedestrians and vehicles, and most peculiar of all, the traffic lights weren’t working. Actually, they’re called robots in Zim, and the reason they’d stopped was to save electricity. In fact, on that particular afternoon, there didn’t seem to be much evidence of there being any electricity for anything, but I quickly came to accept that as normal.  I remember learning in Geography that the Kariba Dam was the biggest hydro-electric power station in the world. It still works. Sort of. But Zimbabwe gave it to neighbouring Zambia in exchange for them repairing it, and so now they have to buy back their own electricity. But the country’s parlous economic situation means they can’t afford very much of it. So, we tumbled out of the truck into the gloom of a dusty floored bar, where I enjoyed my first taste of Castle beer.  Somehow, even without Zesa (that’s electricity), the beers were always chilled to perfection. Priorities.

The balancing rocks. Copyright Anne Moyes

As the city receded, piles of great rocks, bigger than houses loomed along the roadsides.  I imagined that the children of ancient giants must have played at stacking them up.  Their precarious balancing acts seem to defy gravity. 

The A5 is the arterial route from Harare to Bulowayo, and it is very busy. Lack of maintenance means motorists swerve to avoid potholes, rendering our journey into the setting sun far from romantic. Nevertheless, we arrived in once piece at Helen’s house, unloaded the luggage and ate our supper.  Then the electricity went off.  For sixteen hours.

Anne is writing her blog post in instalments for us, as there is so much to share. Africa is such a diverse country and I'm sure you'll find it interesting.



Facebook available here!

It is still easy to keep up to date with the outside world. Facebook is available and the mobile phone/cell phone signals are good in certain areas, as these photos show :)



Phone signals are good in certain areas!

Zimbabwean literature –

Yvonne Vera. The StoneVirgins and Butterfly Burning.  A great recorder of post-independence Zimbabwe, sadly cut down in her prime by AIDS.

Tsitsi Dangarembga. NervousConditions. Like Vera, she left Zimbabwe to study, but returned. Like Vera, a chronicler of the tensions in her birthland.

Doris Lessing grew up in Rhodesia. The Grass is Singing (1951) is the first of several novels which examine racial tension.

Alexander McCall Smith was born in Rhodesia. His Number 1 Ladies Detective Agency stories are set in neighbouring Botswana, but he has written a charming series of children’s stories which are set in Zimbabwe – The Akimbo Adventures.

Owen Sheers. The DustDiaries is this fine contemporary poet’s account of visiting Zimbabwe to try to uncover the story of his great uncle, Arthur Shearly Cripps, a Christian missionary who was loved and honoured by his African flock.

Peter Godwin. TheFear. Godwin experienced an idyllic childhood in South East Zimbabwe, but as a young man, found himself embroiled in the new President Robert Mugabe’s attempts to eradicate tribal opposition.  This recent publication sees his return to the country after the 2008 elections: a brief Spring of hope for a new democracy.

Ben Freeth.  Mugabe and the White African (also on kindle or DVD).  An account of a family’s attempts to retain their farmlands.  Filmed by Channel 4.

Thank you for joining us today Anne. I look forward to sharing part 2 of your life in Zimbabwe.